New Bunny Checklist: Everything You Need for a Pet Rabbit

Pet rabbits, just like a dog or cat, require attention, a host of supplies, and activities. However, the way you care for a bunny will differ somewhat from how you approach raising a new dog or cat. In fact, rabbits have wholly unique needs for nutrition, grooming, exercise, and housing that must be met in order for them to live happy and healthy lives. Want to be the best pet parent you can be? This bunny checklist will guide you through everything you need to know — to prepare for a new bunny and help them feel at home from day one.

Bunny supplies list

Let’s begin with a comprehensive list of supplies you’ll need for your new pet rabbit.

Housing and habitat

• Dog exercise pen

• Large piece of fleece fabric to cover the floor of the exercise pen

• A hideaway 

• Cat litter boxes

• Paper-based litter

Grooming and care

• Nail clippers

• Cat brush

Food and feeding essentials

• Hay

• Leafy greens

• Pellets

• Treats (optional)

• Food and water bowls

• Hay trough (optional)

Miscellaneous

• Toys

• Pet carrier

• Cleaning supplies

• Wire covers

Caring for a rabbit

Next, let’s explore each of these bunny essentials in more detail, so you can select the best supplies and understand how to use them effectively. 

Housing and habitat

Rabbits can free-roam your home (like a cat or dog), as long as they’re well-trained and you’ve taken necessary precautions to bunny-proof your home (i.e. throw out, put away, or block access to anything that could cause them harm). However, it’s best to keep untrained or extra-mischievous rabbits in an enclosure when you’re unable to supervise them, especially at night while you sleep. Here’s what you’ll need for your rabbit’s housing and habitat.

• Exercise pen: The best type of enclosure, both space- and cost-wise, is a dog exercise pen that’s at least 30” high and 4’x4’ (or 4’ x 6’ for two rabbits), advises Joan Wegner, President of East Bay Rabbit Rescue. If your rabbit is a high jumper, 36” inches high is a safer bet. Exercise pens are made up of connected wire panels that can be shaped into a square, rectangle, octagon, or whatever shape you want.

• Flooring: “For flooring, a two-yard piece of fleece purchased in a fabric store makes a comfortable flooring that’s easy to remove and clean,” says Wegner. Avoid using blankets, as rabbits can chew and swallow pieces, which may cause intestinal blockages. 

• Hideaway: “Hideaways are the most overlooked item in rabbit enclosures,” says Wegner. A large willow tent is ideal, adds Wegner, but a cardboard box with two openings (front and back) will also do the trick. 

• Litter box: A rabbit should have one litter box in their enclosure and one outside the enclosure for when they’re exploring. If you have multiple rabbits, add one litter box per extra rabbit (or just use extra-large litter boxes). Avoid the small corner litter boxes marketed for rabbits, as those aren’t roomy enough and discourage good litter-box habits. Instead, buy litter boxes made for cats.

• Litter: Clay-based and clumping litters, commonly used for cats, are unsuitable for rabbits. Rabbits may ingest the litter, potentially causing intestinal blockages. Instead, use paper-based, unscented litter. 

Grooming

Rabbits don’t require routine bathing. Washing, with or without shampoo, strips their fur of natural oils that help maintain a healthy coat. Bathing is also highly stressful for rabbits. Instead, focus on brushing and nail clipping. Here’s what you’ll need. 

• A cat brush: When rabbits groom themselves, they ingest a lot of their own fur, which, unlike cats, they can’t vomit back up, explains Wegner. This increases the risk of gastrointestinal obstructions. As such, brushing out loose fur is vital. Short-haired rabbits should be brushed at least twice a week, while long-haired rabbits should be brushed daily. Bunnies have thin, sensitive skin, so use a soft bristle brush (the ones made for cats work well) and gentle strokes when grooming.

• Nail trims: Wegner says rabbits need their nails trimmed every six to eight weeks. Cat nail clippers are the best choice.

Alexey Demidov / Pexels/

Food and feeding essentials

Rabbits have sensitive digestive systems and very specific nutritional needs, so giving them a healthy, balanced diet is very important. Here’s what their diet should contain.

• Hay (lots of it): Hay is the bulk of a rabbit’s diet, making up about 80 to 90 percent of their food intake. Hay is essential to a rabbit’s good health, as it provides roughage, which reduces the occurrence of hairballs. It also helps grind down their constantly growing teeth. Timothy hay is best for adult rabbits, but orchard hay, oat hay, and brome are also good options. Alfalfa is best for rabbits less than six months old. Rabbits should have unlimited access to hay, so keep their trough and/or litter boxes stocked (more on this shortly).

• Leafy greens: Leafy greens make up about 10 percent of a rabbit’s diet and should be provided daily. Some good options include arugula, basil, bok choy, carrot tops, dill leaves, dandelion greens, all types of lettuce, mint, and parsley. A good rule of thumb is to give your rabbit one to two cups of leafy greens for every four pounds of body weight. Select at least three types of leafy greens daily to provide a variety of nutrients.

• Other vegetables: In moderation, you can offer your rabbit other types of vegetables, such as asparagus, bell peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, celery, cucumber, and green beans. Stick to about one tablespoon per two pounds of body weight daily. 

• Pellets: Timothy pellets can be offered in small amounts — about one-eighth of a cup of pellets per five pounds of body weight daily. Avoid “gourmet” pellets that contain nuts, seeds, or grains. 

• Fruits and other treats: Rabbits have a sweet tooth and will gobble up sugary foods if left to their own devices. All fruits are considered “treats” because of their high sugar content. Carrots also fall into this category. Limit these treats to a small amount once or twice per week. High-glycemic fruits such as bananas and grapes should only be given very occasionally as treats.

• Food and water bowls: Rabbits will need a bowl each for food and water. Use large, heavy bowls that they won’t be able to flip over (because they’ll try!). Ceramic bowls are a good choice.

• Hay trough (optional): This is a handy place to put your rabbit’s hay. You can also put some hay on the inner sides of your rabbit’s litter box, as, oddly, rabbits like to munch on hay while they do their business.

Note: Never give your rabbit processed human foods, as this type of food can harm their delicate digestive systems.

Toys and play

Rabbits love to play and need at least two to four hours outside of their enclosure each day to explore, play, and hop about. Providing your bunny with toys can encourage play and keep their minds and bodies active. Experiment with and change out toys so your bunny doesn’t get bored. According to Wegner, good toy options for rabbits include:

• Chew toys like willow baskets, willow balls, willow tents, seagrass mats, and organic apple or birch sticks

• Cardboard (Pro tip: stuff a cardboard paper towel roll with hay and a treat)

• Tunnels to run through (cat tunnels work well)

• Plastic stacking cups to pull apart

• Other hard plastic baby toys to throw about

• A dig box (a covered box filled with torn newspaper or large gravel they can dig in)

Miscellaneous

Here are some other supplies you’ll need.

• Pet carrier: A pet carrier is essential for safely transporting your rabbit, whether it’s for vet visits, travel, or emergencies. Choose a sturdy carrier with good ventilation and a secure door. Do not use a cardboard carrier, as a rabbit can chew through it.

• Cleaning supplies: Maintaining a clean living environment is crucial for the health of your rabbit (and you). Keep basic cleaning supplies on hand, including a pet-safe cleaner, paper towels, a dustpan, and a vacuum.

• Wire covers: Cover all exposed wires in your home, as rabbits love to chew on these. Alternatively, keep all wires out of reach.

Rabbit care misconceptions

When it comes to caring for rabbits, many well-meaning pet parents fall prey to common misconceptions that can lead to inadequate care. Let’s debunk some of these myths.

Myth 1: Rabbit starter kits are sufficient

One prevalent misconception is that rabbit starter kits sold in pet stores are sufficient for a rabbit’s needs. These kits, which typically include a small amount of hay, a small cage, a water bottle, and a plastic food dish, only provide the bare minimum for a rabbit’s survival. The small cages included in these kits are not recommended, as they can severely restrict a rabbit’s movement, leading to stress and health issues. Rabbits need ample space to hop, stretch, and explore.

Additionally, these kits usually lack several essential items, such as an exercise pen, toys, fresh leafy greens, heavy food and water bowls, adequate amounts of hay, and litter boxes. A customized setup, guided by the checklist in this article, is a far better approach to meeting your rabbit’s needs.

Myth 2: Rabbits can thrive on just pellets

Another common myth is that a diet of pellets alone is sufficient for a rabbit. While pellets are a convenient source of nutrition, they shouldn’t be the sole component of a rabbit’s diet. Fresh hay should be the primary food source, supplemented with fresh leafy greens and a limited number of pellets.

Myth 3: Rabbits don’t need veterinary care

Some people believe rabbits don’t require regular veterinary care like dogs and cats do. This is false. Rabbits need yearly veterinary check-ups to monitor their health and administer vaccines. (Check out these tips for reducing vet bills.) 

Myth 4: Rabbits are low-maintenance pets

Rabbits need a considerable amount of care and attention. They require daily feeding of hay and fresh veggies, regular cleaning of their living area, mental stimulation through toys and interaction, brushing, human companionship, and ample exercise time outside their cages. 

Plus, rabbits typically live eight to 12 years (or longer), so you need to commit to long-term care. However, once you establish a routine, caring for a rabbit will likely become a rewarding and manageable part of your daily life.

Myth 5: Rabbits are good starter pets for young children

While rabbits are often marketed as great pets for children, adult supervision and involvement in their care are essential in households with kids. Rabbits are actually quite delicate and can be easily injured if handled improperly. Additionally, rabbits can become stressed by being held, carried, or handled roughly, and do best in a calm environment. Rabbits are best suited in households with well-behaved, older children.

Ready to adopt a rabbit? Use Adopt a Pet’s search feature to look for rabbits from shelters, rescues, and individuals. Not sure if rabbit parenthood is right for you? Try fostering a bunny first. 

References

Essential House Rabbit Supplies

Food & Diet

Living Spaces

Rabbit Grooming: Brushing, Nail Trims, and More

Sweet Home for Bunny: X-Pens and Other Housing Options

What Should You Put in Your Rabbit’s Litter Tray?