How to Get a Cat in a Carrier
Does your cat refuse to get into a carrier? Try these strategies.
Does your cat refuse to get into a carrier? Try these strategies.
by Daniela Lopez, | September 29, 2025

Kzenon / Shutterstock
Many cats have only bad associations with cat carriers. To them, carriers are synonymous with car rides, noise, stress — and usually, the vet. In fact, 58 percent of pet parents say their cats hate going to the vet clinic. So it’s no wonder they disappear the second a carrier comes out of storage. For cats, the carrier might be necessary only once a year for their annual checkup, but that’s still stressful for everyone.
So, how do you safely and quickly get a cat inside their carrier — without a battle? We’ll go over two methods: the burrito cat and the willing cat. One will help you reduce stress and result (ideally) in your cat willingly going into the carrier. The other is useful in a pinch to get your cat into the carrier, especially for their initial appointment.

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This burrito cat method is not a long-term training approach, but rather a quick and practical technique to keep things calmer. Note: This method is only for cats who are uninjured and typically friendly.
Step-by-step guide for getting a cat into a carrier.
The day before, place the carrier in the bathroom while your cat is distracted elsewhere — like when they are eating, playing, or sleeping. If your cat is frightened of the bathroom, you can choose a different room.
Position the carrier upright, with the door facing the ceiling, so that it stands on its end. The goal here is to use gravity and the slippery sides of the plastic carrier to help. Hardsided carriers work best.
Place a lightweight bath towel in the bathroom. It should be big enough to wrap around your cat and cover their paws and claws, but not so big that it won’t fit through the carrier door.
Casually bring your cat into the bathroom and close the door. You can pick them up or lure them into the bathroom with food or a toy.
Next, gently and snugly wrap your cat in the towel, burrito-style, leaving only their head exposed. The wrap should be secure enough to prevent escape, but not so tight that it restricts movement or breathing. You may not get this right the first time, so take a moment to adjust it.
With the tail end first, gently lower your towel-wrapped cat into the carrier and close the door. Don’t worry about unwrapping them — they’ll do that part themselves.
Just remember that you can’t rely on this method long-term. Being wrapped up and put into a carrier still causes some stress. They can build negative associations with you picking them up, or going into the bathroom, or even with towels — and that’s not a problem you want to have.
To foster positive associations with the carrier, consistent long-term cat training (see below) is essential.

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For a longer-term solution, you should help your cat get comfortable around the carrier using positive-reinforcement training. The idea is to make the carrier part of your cat’s normal day, instead of a once-a-year nightmare.
Keep the carrier in a space where your cat already hangs out, rather than dragging it out only before a vet visit. Put it somewhere you can see it throughout the day. Make the carrier cozy with a soft blanket or familiar bedding, or put a cover on top.
Place treats or meals just inside the carrier door, then gradually move the food further inside so your cat chooses to go in on their own. Go at their pace. They may need you to start farther away from the door than you might think.
Reward any interaction. Even if your cat sniffs or steps toward the carrier, mark the behavior (with a clicker or a word you consistently use) and reward them. Over time, they’ll associate the carrier with good things rather than trips to the vet.
Don’t force them in — let them explore on their own terms. The more trust in you and control they feel, the less resistance you’ll get. Expect to work on this daily. Some cats pick things up quickly, while others might take a few months. But if you start now, your cat will be prepared before their next appointment.
This process takes time, but it pays off. With consistency, the carrier becomes just another safe spot, not a trap. Some cat training groups — such as Rock Cats Rescue — train their cats with whistles, so cats happily hop in on command. It takes time and consistency, but the principle works: choice, reward, repeat.
Never chase your cat to get them into the carrier. This scares them and will only set you back.
Never punish or force your cat. Positive reinforcement and patience work far better than scolding or pressure.
Some trainers suggest taking it even slower. Take the carrier apart by removing the top, and then work on desensitization. Make no big deal about your cat using the bottom half as a bed. From there, build positive associations with treats in the uncovered carrier. Once your cat is comfortable in the space, add the top back on and repeat the desensitization and reinforcement process.
Cover the carrier with a light blanket or towel once your cat is inside. This helps reduce visual stress during the trip.
Find a cat-friendly or fear-free veterinarian who can help your cat have a stress-free visit.
Schedule vet visits at quieter times of day if possible.
“Half of American Cats Don’t Get Regular Veterinary Care.” Veterinary Practice News, 29 July 2013, www.veterinarypracticenews.com/half-of-american-cats-dont-get-regular-veterinary-care.
“Teach Your Cat to Love the Carrier | Wisconsin Humane Society.” www.wihumane.org, www.wihumane.org/behavior/ask-the-experts/cat-behavior/teach-your-cat-to-love-the-carrier.

Daniela Lopez is the content manager at Adopt a Pet. As a content strategist, she has previously contributed to The Bark, The Wildest, and more. She has volunteered for several non-profits, including the Alameda Animal Shelter and Lost Our Home Pet Rescue, and is currently a foster for her local SPCA. In her free time, she has two mixed-breed rescue dogs keeping her on her toes.
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